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Biography of Phurba Tashi Sherpa

Phurba Tashi Sherpa Mendewa is a Nepalese Sherpa mountaineer recognized for his extensive ascents of significant Himalayan summits. These are 21 ascents of Mount Everest, six of Cho Oyu, eight of Manaslu, and one each of Shishapangma and Lhotse.

Phurba Tashi

Born	May 24, 1971 Khumjung, Nepal
Occupation(s)	Mountain guide, guesthouse owner
Popular for	21 ascents of Mount Everest

Contents

1 Everest climbs
2 Everest: Beyond the Limit
3 Everest summits
4 After the record
5 Other climbs

Everest climbs

Phurba Tashi was born in Khumjung, Nepal, just 10 kilometers from the base camp of Everest. He was raised in a family of climbers, observing his father and uncles embark on climbing adventures alongside international mountaineers.

His inaugural successful ascent of an eight-thousander occurred on Cho Oyu in 1998. At the age of 28, Tashi ascended Mount Everest for the first time the following year.

In 2000, he assisted Marco Siffredi on the inaugural snowboard descent of Cho Oyu. Tashi and Siffredi developed a friendship, with Tashi subsequently visiting Siffredi in Chamonix and later joining him for his successful ascents of Everest. Following an arduous 13-hour ascent during their second summit of Everest on September 8, 2002, Phurba urged Siffredi to forgo his endeavor to become the first to snowboard the Hornbein Couloir. Siffredi declined and ultimately became lost on the mountain.

Everest: Beyond the Limit

Tashi was featured in the Discovery Channel series Everest: Beyond the Limit from 2006 to 2007. He features in 11 episodes, more than any other character in the series. In the inaugural season of the Discovery Channel series (2006), he was depicted transporting double-amputee Mark Inglis on his back during a segment of the lower drop.

In 2007, he ascended the peak three times within that same season. That year, prompted by expedition leader Russell Brice, Tashi consented to accompany David Tait on his endeavor to achieve the inaugural double traverse of Everest, ascending via the northern route to the summit, descending on the southern side, resting for three days, and subsequently retracing the journey in reverse.

Upon reaching Base Camp on the mountain’s southern flank, Tait opted to withdraw from the return traverse. Tait stated that his decision was shaped by his conviction that Phurba Tashi was a much superior climber who would have afforded him all the acclaim had they persisted. Tait reached the peak of Everest for the third time in May 2009, once more accompanied by Tashi, marking his 15th ascent.

In May 2013, Phurba Tashi achieved his 21st summit of Mount Everest while employed with Kishan Rai Mountain Experience, equaling the record formerly held by Apa Sherpa. The record was surpassed in 2018 by Kami Rita Sherpa.

Everest summits

May 24, 1999
May 27, 2001
May 17, 2002
May 25, 2002
September 8, 2002
May 22, 2003
May 31, 2003
May 23, 2004
June 4, 2005
April 30, 2006
April 30, 2007
May 15, 2007
June 14, 2007
May 5, 2009
May 21, 2009
May 5, 2010
May 22, 2010
May 5, 2011
May 20, 2011
May 10, 2013
May 24, 2013 (21st Everest summiting)

After the record

Tashi prepared to make his 22nd ascent of Mount Everest the year following his record-equalizing summit. Directed by Jennifer Peedom and cinematographer Renan Ozturk, the film crew intended to document the endeavor. Nevertheless, the 2014 Mount Everest ice avalanche prompted the producers to shift the focus to the aftermath of the catastrophic event. However, Phurba Tashi was prominently featured in the 2015 documentary as Sherpa.

After the 2014 season, Phurba Tashi withdrew from the Everest ascent. As the chief sherpa for Himex, the “Everest Yak” maintained his presence at Everest Base Camp.

In 2015, the earthquake that severely affected his village of Khumjung had a profound impact on Phurba Tashi’s existence. After the loss of his eight-bedroom trekking lodge in Khumjung, Nepal, and the extensive damage to his house, he stated, “Everything I worked for was destroyed in a minute.”

Tashi is currently engaged in the management of operations for climbers on Everest in collaboration with Russell Brice and other expeditions. Tashi also manages the Tashi Friendship Lodge, a restaurant and guesthouse located in Khumjung, Nepal.